By the way, if you’re into home workshop setups or just looking for decor inspiration, I stumbled on https://decoramaison.com the other day while researching lighting ideas – surprisingly handy when you’re trying to make your painting corner feel less like a cave.

So let’s dive in. And be honest with me : how many of these have you done this month?

1. Overloading the brush (yes, even now)

It’s wild how often this happens. You dip, you think “looks fine,” and suddenly there’s a tidal wave of paint drowning the details. I still do it when I switch from basecoats to highlights without thinking. The fix ? Wipe more than you think you need. A tiny bead of paint at the tip – that’s it. If it feels too little, it’s probably perfect.

2. Painting from the pot – “just this once”

I know… it’s quicker. I’ve whispered that lie to myself too. But every time, the paint thickens, coverage gets blotchy, and before you know it, you’ve lost half the texture on a cloak. A wet palette really is that good. Even a cheap DIY one with a bit of baking paper works wonders.

3. Skipping primer on “easy” pieces

Sometimes I look at a plastic miniature and think, “eh, it’ll grab the paint.” Nope. Every time I get lazy, the paint starts sliding around like butter on a hot pan. Use any primer – rattle can, brush-on, airbrush – but don’t skip it. Your sanity will thank you.

4. Treating every model like a Golden Demon entry

This is a big one among experienced painters. You start a squad and suddenly you’re glazing each gemstone for 20 minutes. Honestly, it kills motivation. Pick where the quality matters. Characters ? Yes. Rank-and-file troopers ? Get them tabletop-ready and move on. Your future self wants to actually play a game someday.

5. Neglecting the underlighting

Lighting changes everything. I used to paint in a dim room in Chesterton with a tiny desk lamp – the colours looked fine at the time, but once I saw the minis in daylight… oof. If you’ve ever been disappointed by your paint job outside your workspace, this is why. Get a neutral lamp or two ; it doesn’t have to be fancy.

6. Not thinning paints consistently

We all know we should thin our paints, yet somehow we forget. Maybe the pot is new. Maybe we’re tired. Suddenly your beautiful sculpt has become a smooth blob. The trick is to think of consistency rather than rules : basecoat = milk, glaze = tinted water, highlight = creamy but thin. Easy.

7. Rushing the drying time

I get impatient – I admit it. You lay down a wash, you want to keep going. But if you touch it even a minute too early, you’re heading straight for streak city. Grab a hairdryer on low if you must (not too close !), or just… breathe and take a sip of your tea. Let the model rest.

8. Ignoring brush care until it’s too late

Ever destroy a perfectly good size 1 Raphael by forgetting to rinse metallics out of it ? I have. Twice. Treat your brushes kindly : rinse often, reshape the tip, and use brush soap once in a while. These small habits extend their life like crazy.

9. Using the wrong size brush for the job

Advanced painters are surprisingly guilty of this. We reach for a tiny detail brush because it feels “precise,” but ironically, bigger brushes control paint flow better. Try doing your base layers with a size 2 or even 3 – it’s smoother, faster, and way less frustrating.

10. Forgetting to step back and look at the whole model

When you’re zoomed in on a tiny shoulder pad, it’s easy to lose sight of the bigger picture. Sometimes I catch myself overworking a highlight that no one will ever notice. Every 10–15 minutes, hold the miniature at arm’s length. Does the contrast read well ? Are the colours balanced ? If yes, stop fiddling.

How many did you recognize ?

If you nodded at five or more, don’t worry – that just means you’re human. The best painters I’ve met make mistakes constantly ; they just recover from them faster because they know why they happen. Pick one bad habit to fix this week. Just one. You’ll be shocked at how much smoother your next project feels.

And if you’ve got your own “embarrassing but universal” painting mistake, seriously, tell me – I love hearing those stories.

And because I love seeing how different creators tackle these issues, I stumbled the other day on https://www.leblogdecathy.com while hunting for inspiration-funny how one tip in a random article can completely shift the way you approach colours. Anyway, let’s dive into the mistakes we ALL make, even when we think we’re past them.

1. Using paint straight from the pot

Honestly, this one haunted me for years. Undiluted paint goes on thick, chalky, and it buries details faster than a heavy snow in February. Always thin your paint-you’ve heard it before, but do you actually do it every single time ? Try a wet palette if you haven’t yet ; it feels like cheating at first, in the best possible way.

2. Rushing the priming stage

You know that moment when you’re excited to start, so you blast the primer on like you’re pressure-washing a patio ? Yeah… don’t. Too much primer softens every edge. I find that one slow pass, then a second gentle one from a different angle, gives a crisp surface that behaves beautifully under a basecoat.

3. Painting under terrible lighting

If your workspace looks like a dim tavern in a fantasy RPG, your colours will lie to you. Warm bulbs distort tones ; shadows hide mistakes you only notice the next morning (the horror). Get a daylight lamp. It changed everything for me-especially when trying to match subtle tones like bone or leather.

4. Skipping the cleanup of mould lines

We’ve all done it : “No one will see that line on the elbow.” Except… you will. Forever. A quick scrape with a hobby knife saves hours of frustration later. I usually do it while listening to a podcast so it doesn’t feel like a chore.

5. Overloading the brush

There’s something almost instinctive about dipping too deep into the paint. But a brush belly full of paint equals blotches, pooling, and those accidental streaks across a cloak you spent 40 minutes layering. Wipe off the excess. Your future self will send you a thank-you note.

6. Ignoring consistency in your highlights

Maybe you’ve had this happen too : you finish a figure, take a photo, and suddenly notice one highlight is bright enough to signal an airplane, while another is barely visible. Keeping highlights consistent-same direction, similar intensity-makes a model instantly look more intentional and “pro”.

7. Not letting layers dry fully

I’m guilty of this when I paint late at night, half-running on tea. You think, “It’s probably dry enough,” and boom-muddy colours. Just give it a couple more minutes. Or use a hairdryer on low ; it’s a lifesaver when batch-painting squads.

8. Overworking blends

Blending is like cooking pasta : easy to overdo. If you keep pushing the paint trying to “fix” it, it suddenly turns grainy or patchy. Sometimes you just have to let a less-than-perfect blend sit, dry, and adjust with a glaze later. Trust the process.

9. Forgetting to varnish (or varnishing badly)

Nothing hurts more than watching a crisp edge highlight rub off because you skipped varnish before a game night. But equally tragic is blasting it with too much matte varnish and fogging the whole thing. Sprays work best in dry conditions ; if it’s humid, go for a brush-on varnish instead.

10. Treating every miniature like it has to be a masterpiece

I see this all the time, and honestly, I still fall into the trap. Not every model deserves 12 hours of layering. Pick your “showpiece” minis and paint the rest to a tabletop standard without guilt. Painting should stay fun-if you burn out, what’s the point ?

How to break these habits for good

Here’s what worked for me : create tiny routines. A quick checklist before painting (“light ? palette ? thinning ?”), set a timer when drying layers, and don’t be afraid to experiment. Seriously, the more you paint, the more natural these good habits become.

And you-yeah, you reading this-what’s the mistake you keep making, even though you KNOW better ? I’m genuinely curious. Every painter’s “perpetual flaw” tells a story.

So let’s cut through the noise.
No fluff. No intimidating jargon.
Just a practical guide built for real miniature painters – beginners who want a smooth start, and experienced hobbyists who want to upgrade without regret.

Ready ? Let’s breathe a bit of clean air into this whole topic.

What Do You Actually Need From an Airbrush ?

Before talking brands, ask yourself something simple : What do you want to do with it ?

Because honestly, the “best” airbrush totally depends on your goals. Basecoating an entire Warhammer army isn’t the same as shooting ultra-fine highlights on a 32mm face. And if you’re like me, sometimes you want both.

Here’s the quick version :

• Basecoats & zenithal : you want an easy-to-clean, reliable, 0.3–0.4 mm nozzle.
• Smooth blends & gradients : gravity feed, dual-action, 0.2–0.3 mm.
• Detail work (OSL, small highlights): 0.2 mm or finer, but only if you like fiddling with thinning ratios.

And let me just say it : don’t chase ultra-fine nozzles if you’re just starting out. I tried that at the beginning – it clogged every 10 minutes. I almost threw the airbrush out the window. 0.3 mm is the sweet spot for most miniature hobbyists.

Single or Dual Action : Which One Makes Sense in 2025?

If you’ve never touched an airbrush before, this distinction looks obscure. But the truth is simple :

Single-action : you press the trigger, the airbrush sprays. That’s it. Simple, predictable… and kind of limited.

Dual-action : you press for air, pull back for paint. Slight learning curve, but ten times more control.

Honestly ? In 2025, dual-action is the way to go. Even beginners get used to it after a couple of sessions. Your blends will look better, your paint won’t spider on you as often, and you’ll outgrow single-action in about two weeks anyway.

So unless you’re restoring train models in your garage with a 1980s vibe (respect if you are), just pick dual-action now and save yourself an upgrade later.

The Best Airbrushes for Miniature Painting in 2025 (Based on Real Use)

Here’s the part everyone scrolls for.
These recommendations come from actual hobby usage – from painters who spray at 1 bar, thin paint until it looks like semi-skimmed milk, and occasionally shoot Vallejo primer too thick because they’re in a hurry.

1. Iwata Eclipse HP-CS – The Most Reliable All-Rounder

If someone stole all my gear and I had to re-buy one airbrush tomorrow, it would be this one.
It’s tough, smooth, predictable. A real workhorse.

Why it works :

• 0.35 mm nozzle = perfect for miniature work
• Forgiving with thinning and pressure
• Easy maintenance (the needle practically cleans itself… almost)

It’s not the cheapest, but it’s the one that makes you say “ahhh, that’s how it should feel” the first time you pull the trigger.

2. Harder & Steenbeck Evolution – Great Control, Great Feel

If you want finesse without going full pro-level, the Evolution sits in that sweet middle zone.
The modular design is brilliant – you can swap needle sizes in minutes without feeling like you’re performing surgery.

I love the tactile feel of the trigger. It’s crisp. You always know how much paint you’re pulling.

3. Badger Patriot 105 – Best Budget-Friendly Option

This thing is the “friendly neighbourhood airbrush.” Affordable, reliable, easy to fix, and replacement parts don’t cost a kidney.

It’s not a detail monster, but for priming and smooth basecoats, it absolutely delivers.

4. Harder & Steenbeck Infinity – For Painters Who Want Ultimate Precision

If you’re already comfortable with airbrushing and want the sort of control that lets you spray highlights the width of a hair, the Infinity is a joy.

The quick-adjust trigger stop is addictive. At first you don’t think you need it… then you try it for edge highlights and suddenly you can’t live without it.

How Much Should You Spend on Your First Airbrush ?

Here’s a question I get constantly : “Do I really need to spend £200?”

Short answer : No.

Longer answer : spend enough that your airbrush doesn’t fight you. Cheap £25 kits from marketplaces look tempting, but they often leak, clog, or spray like a wet garden hose. It’s frustrating and ruins your learning curve.

A realistic budget for beginners in 2025:

• £80–£120 for a good starter airbrush
• £60–£100 for a compressor (tank recommended – trust me, your ears will thank you)

Anything above that is comfort, durability, and precision – which you might want eventually, just not mandatory on day one.

Which Needle Size Should You Choose ?

Honestly, I used to obsess over this. 0.2 mm or 0.3 mm ? Which makes me a better painter ?
Spoiler : neither. Your thinning ratios matter more than the needle.

For most miniature painters :

• 0.3–0.35 mm → ideal starter size
• 0.2 mm → great once you master consistency

If you’re painting armies, terrain or doing zenithal priming : stay around 0.3 mm.

If you love high-end display models and ultra-smooth blends : the 0.2 mm will eventually call your name.

What About Compressors ? (Because Yes, It Matters)

Your compressor is half the experience. A bad one pulses, overheats, vibrates across the room… the whole drama.

Look for :

• a tank (yes, seriously, it stabilises airflow);
• a pressure regulator you can adjust easily ;
• quiet operation – under 50–55 dB if possible.

I once used a tankless compressor in a tiny apartment. It rattled so much my neighbour knocked to ask if I was drilling something.
Don’t be me. Get a tank.

So… Which Airbrush Should You Choose in 2025?

If you want the simple TL;DR:

• Best overall : Iwata Eclipse HP-CS
• Best for beginners : Badger Patriot 105
• Best for precision : Harder & Steenbeck Infinity
• Most versatile upgrade path : Harder & Steenbeck Evolution

But the real “best” is the one that makes you want to sit down, turn on the compressor, and paint that squad you’ve been procrastinating on for months.

And honestly ? When you find the right one, you’ll feel it immediately – the trigger moves just right, the spray is smooth, and suddenly the idea of painting 60 cultists doesn’t feel like a punishment.

Final Tip Before You Buy

If you can, hold the airbrush before purchasing. Even five seconds.
Your hand will tell you faster than any spec sheet.

And if that’s not possible, start with something reliable and forgiving. You can always upgrade once you know what you actually enjoy doing with it.

Alright – your turn.
What do you want to achieve with your airbrush ?
Because now you know exactly which path to take.